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- Harman/Kardon (207)
- Klipsch (206)
- Polk Audio (188)
- Sony (168)
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This first part is easy. Just factor in the variables of budget, room size, and the quality/quantity of the components, and you'll know approximately where you stand.
Price brackets: $500 or less | $1,000 or less | $1,500 or less | More than $1,500
Most HTIBs combine a 5.1-speaker package with an AV receiver that has an integrated DVD player, which these days is usually capable of upscaling DVDs via an HDMI output. The only missing piece is a TV. HTIB prices range from less than $300 to in excess of $3,000.
HTIB types: Cheap thrills | High on style | Component packages | Exotica: wireless and virtual surround
Cheap thrills
Upside: Affordable; compact; comparatively easy to set up.
Downside: Won't rock the house; spotty build quality; limited connectivity options.
Budget-priced HTIBs almost always feature small speakers and subwoofers. Sound quality is usually far from stellar, but some low-end HTIBs sound pretty decent.

Power ratings fall within the 25-to-50-watt-per-channel range. That's enough to fill a small room with sound; just don't expect massive loudness capability from a wee HTIB.
Surround formats are limited to basic Dolby Digital/Pro Logic II and DTS/DTS Neo:6, while connectivity options are typically restricted to just two or three AV inputs.
Most HTIBs, even in the budget range, include an HDMI output with upscaling, so look for that if you have an HDMI-equipped HDTV.
High on style
Upside: Elegant appearance; features galore; comparatively easy to set up.
Downside: Still won't rock the house; limited bass output; sleek-looking electronics usually have limited connectivity options.

A number of manufacturers offer sleek HTIBs with petite satellites (5 inches tall or even smaller). At the other extreme, you can buy HTIBs with tall yet incredibly slender floor-standing speakers. Some HTIBs tuck their amplifiers inside the subwoofer, which allows the manufacturer to trim down the receiver/DVD player component to truly svelte sizes.
Single-play and DVD-changer models are available. Single-play models are the most compact and smoothest-running, and they tend to be the most reliable. The changers, which typically hold three to six discs, may be either single-tray-loading or carousel-style mechanisms. Tray changers can be almost as compact as the single-play models, though they're usually noisier and slower as they go about their disc-changing operations. Carousel models are faster and quieter, but the drawback is they grab a lot of shelf space; many are 17 inches wide and 15 to 18 inches deep.
Component packages
Upside: Solid build quality; features similar standalone components; generous connectivity.
Downside: More involved setup; clunky component styling; speaker packages usually far below the quality (and price) of separate speakers.
Rather than combine the receiver and the DVD player in one compact unit, some manufacturers offer HTIBs built around separate components. This approach forfeits most of the space-saving allure of the classic HTIB, but there are performance advantages to the separates route.
With component-based HTIBs, their larger size lets designers fit in more power and significantly greater connectivity options. Component systems provide inputs for a larger number of external sources, such as satellite, VCRs, and cassette decks, than one-piece HTIBs. HDMI connectivity is often included, along with the ability to switch between two sources, but more sophisticated features--such as HDMI upconversion and deinterlacing--are usually missing.
Exotica: wireless and virtual surround
Upside: Space-saving HTIB design still incorporates cutting-edge technology.
Downside: Sometimes expensive--you might as well buy first-class separates.
HTIBs strive to take the fuss out of home theater, but for some people even HTIBs are too much of an imposition on their living room. That's where wireless and virtual-surround HTIBs fit in, eliminating many of wires and additional speakers that make even traditional HTIBs a hassle to set up. Wireless accessories are now included with many HTIBs, or at least are available as an add-on option. Of course, wireless doesn't always mean wireless--even "wireless" rear speakers usually need to be plugged into the wall--but the long cables from the front to the back of the room are eliminated.
Virtual surround, on the other hand, ditches the rear speakers and attempts to simulate the surround experience from three, two, or even one speaker. True audiophiles will complain that nothing beats the real thing--and they're right--but many of the newer virtual-surround systems offer good approximations, which is an acceptable compromise for design-conscious buyers.
Audio/video receivers differ quite a bit from old stereo receivers, as almost all receivers offer 7.1 channels along with video switching. One of the biggest differentiating features on receivers these days are HDMI capabilities, and you'll need to read the fine print to figure out exactly what the receiver can and cannot do.
Receiver price brackets: Entry level (under $300) | Midrange ($301 to $600) | High-end ($600 and up)
Entry level (under $300)
Upside: Nowadays, entry-level receivers have just about everything anybody needs for basic home theater.
Downside: Lightweight build quality; inflated power ratings; lacks more advanced functionality, like HDMI upconversion; poorly designed remotes.
Entry-level receivers can handle the basics pretty well. Almost all of them offer 7.1 channels and come with the standard array of Dolby and DTS surround-processing modes. Power ratings run from 50 to 100 watts per channel. In this price range, many of the ratings are inflated, so the specs aren't a good way to judge real-world performance.
Connectivity options are usually adequate for most systems, and receivers in this price range are even starting to include HDMI connectivity. Be sure to read the fine print though--most receivers in this price range may not accept audio signals via HDMI and probably won't convert analog video sources to HDMI output.
Midrange ($301 to $600)
Upside: Features galore; plentiful connectivity options; potentially strong HDMI functionality; midline receivers are more solidly constructed than entry-level models.
Downside: More expensive; systems can be fairly huge and hog too much shelf space.
Beyond the now-standard Dolby Digital/DTS surround-processing modes, some receivers in the midrange offer onboard Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio decoding--the two new high-resolution soundtrack modes available on certain Blu-ray and HD DVD discs. There's a lot of confusion about these new formats, and for now, onboard decoding is more about future compatibility than a must-have feature for today, since currently you can listen to these high-resolution soundtracks only by letting your HD DVD or Blu-ray player decode them.

Also, thanks to their superior digital processing capabilities, midpriced receivers offer better synthesized surround modes such as Jazz Club, Rock Club, Cathedral, and so on that can be used to "open up" the sound of stereo recordings.
Onscreen displays (using your TV) are available at this price point, easing surround setup and general navigation chores. Programmable remotes control TVs and other AV components, while more-expensive models employ LCDs or keypads to make universal remote setup easier.
Better receivers also have more inputs, along with the ability to upconvert analog sources to the HDMI output. This is convenient, because you can leave your TV tuned to one input, and select which device you want using just the receiver.
High-end ($600 and up)
Upside: At this price range, expect honest power ratings, up-to-the-second features, and great sound quality.
Downside: An overabundance of features can mean overly complex setup chores.
In a perfect world, power ratings would give some indication of the loudness potential of AV receiver. But unfortunately, not every 100-watt-per-channel receiver is created equal. What's inside does make a difference, and beefy power transformers and capacitors are not only heavy but also expensive; that's part of what you're paying for here. And while the THX certification is mostly a marketing gimmick, it's usually a sign of more-honest power ratings--although you shouldn't pay more just for THX.

Higher-end receivers usually offer extensive multiroom capability, allowing you to listen to difference sources in different room in your home.
High-end receivers also come with the latest HDMI capabilities and often more than two HDMI inputs. Lots of HDMI inputs are nice, given all the high-def sources available these days, but those on a budget should check out an HDMI switcher to expand their HDMI inputs on the cheap. Receivers above $1,000 often also include top-notch video processors, providing the best image quality on upconverted analog sources.
Surround sound requires at least five satellite speakers and a subwoofer, but there are exceptions to that rule. In this section, we'll go through speaker placement options and outline surround-sound alternatives that use fewer than six speakers.
Speaker placement | Do I really need five speakers and a sub? | Wireless options
Speaker placement
Before shopping for speakers, try to imagine where you're going to put them in your room. Speakers can be placed on floor stands, hung on wall brackets, or placed on furniture. Subwoofers typically sound best in room corners or near the left- or right-front speakers.
The front three--left, center, and right--speakers usually sound best when positioned with their tweeters elevated to the same height as a seated listener's ears. In any case, try to keep the center speaker near the same height as the left and right speakers.

You can place speakers on shelves or on/in a low cabinet or entertainment center. Some speakers are better suited to this arrangement than others. "Acoustic suspension" sealed satellites are the most appropriate. Next best are ported speakers--as long as the ports are located on the front of the cabinet. However, speakers with rear-mounted ports won't perform at their peak when placed inside a piece of furniture.
As for the rear-channel surround speakers, they usually sound best when positioned three or more feet higher than the front speakers. However, high-fidelity DVD-Audio and Super Audio CD music will sound best when surround speakers are placed at the same height (ear level) as the front speakers.
Do I really need five speakers and a sub?

If you'd rather not deal with the clutter of speaker cabinets and stringing six or more cables across your room, check out the few HTIBs that use virtual surround speakers to reduce the speaker count to two or three. Unfortunately, sound quality and surround effects won't replicate true multichannel speaker systems.
Wireless options
The dream of wireless high-performance speakers is still unfulfilled, but most manufacturers offer "wireless" speakers that receive signals via radio waves or infrared light. For the most part, these wireless options are restricted to the surround (rear) speakers. Despite the promise, wireless speakers still need wires--they need to be plugged into the wall outlet for power, at the very least. But they do eliminate the need for those long front-to-back speaker wire runs. Battery-powered wireless speakers just won't cut it in any sort of quality-oriented surround system.
Packaged systems take the guesswork out of buying the most important part of any surround-sound system. We'll go through their component speakers and let you know what to look for.
Speaker package basics:
Front-left and front-right speakers |
Center speaker |
Surround speakers |
Subwoofer |
One-way, two-way, three-way |
On-wall speakers |
Speaker connectivity
Front-left and front-right speakers
You can choose from miniature 4-inch-tall satellites or move up to hulking tower speakers. There's a size and shape for every taste. While the best small speakers can sound awfully good, they produce less bass and have loudness limitations compared to larger speakers. Full-size, 38-inch-tall or larger tower speakers frequently offer the best overall sound, though midsize 12- to 15-inch-tall bookshelf speakers may be the best compromise for sound-conscious buyers who can't accept the visual intrusion of full-size speakers.

Center speaker
The same logic applies to the vitally important center speaker, which is responsible for reproducing a large part of your DVD's dialogue, effects, and music. The smallest 7-inch-wide models are the least visually intrusive but most sonically compromised.
Surround speakers
A standard 5.1 system uses a pair of surround speakers, located to the sides of the main listening position. The newer Dolby EX/DTS ES 6.1 systems add either one or two surround speakers, centered behind the main listening position.
Subwoofer
Subwoofers supply deeper bass than satellite speakers. Once again, cabinet and driver size play a large part in predicting bass quality and quantity. Lower-end HTIB models are called passive, meaning the receiver's amplifier powers the subwoofer. Higher-quality subwoofers are powered, as they have their own onboard power amps.
One-way: woofer only | Two-way: woofer and tweeter | Three-way: woofer, tweeter, and midrange |
Generally speaking, two-way speakers produce better sound than the one-way designs found on many entry-level HTIB systems. And three-way speakers usually sound better than two-ways. Some designs add one or more extra woofers, though multiple woofer, or midranges don't increase the "ways" of a speaker--a speaker with two woofers, one midrange, and one tweeter is still a three-way speaker. Multidriver speakers are usually pricier than speakers with fewer drivers.
On-wall speakers
Low-profile on-wall speakers are the perfect sonic solution for wall-mounted plasma and flat-panel TVs. Some models are designed to visually complement wall-mounted TVs. On-wall speakers can also be a better-sounding alternative to in-wall speakers. For apartment dwellers, on-wall speakers free up floor space.
Speaker connectivity
Most lower-priced speakers use spring-loaded connectors, which may not provide the most secure grip on the wires. Binding posts are better and work with bare wire leads, spades (U-shaped connectors), or handiest of all, banana jacks (bowed, banana-shaped male jacks). You can get banana jacks at specialty audio stores or your neighborhood Radio Shack.

Some higher-end speakers have biwire capability--two sets of female connectors. One set of connectors are for the tweeter, and another set hooks up to the woofer; many cable manufacturers offer special biwire cables. Biwiring may produce slightly better sound with more detail and higher-definition bass than the standard single-wire method.
Cherry-picking the front, center, surround, and subwoofer speakers, you can better select the solution that meets your precise needs. We'll also let you know how best to blend your current speakers into a surround setup.
Separate speaker basics: Speaker-matching Q&A | Front-left and front-right speakers | Center speaker | Surround speakers | Subwoofers | Getting wired
Speaker-matching Q&A
Question: Multibrand matching--can I use my old speakers and new ones together in a surround system?
Mixing a different brand of surround speaker or subwoofer with your stereo speakers might be a risky proposition. Center speakers are the trickiest; mismatching the left-center-right speakers may result in jarring timbre shifts when the sound is panned across the front three speakers. Matching surround speakers is less critical, but in any case, try to arrange a home audition.
Question: Unibrand matching--do all JBL speakers go together? Can I match big towers and small surrounds?
Chances are same-brand speakers of a given vintage will sonically match, but when in doubt, check with the company's customer service people. And sure, you can match large and small speakers in one system.
Question: What's the lowdown on subwoofer matching?
Matching subwoofer to satellites is in some ways the easiest chore. The safest bet is to stick with the same brand. One rule of thumb is to mate small sats with small subs; if the sats have 4-inch or smaller woofers, better stick with a fairly small sub with an 8-inch woofer. Larger sats will do their best with larger subs that have 10- or 12-inch woofers.
Infinity Primus 360
What to look for: center-channel speakers
The same logic applies to the vitally important center speaker, which is responsible for reproducing a large part of your DVD's dialogue, effects, and music. The smallest 7-inch-wide models are the least visually intrusive but most sonically compromised.
What to look for: Surrounds
There are two types of surround designs:
1. Monopole
The conventional surround speaker looks like a standard satellite speaker. These monopole speakers aim the sound straight ahead. Most HTIBs and entry-level speaker packages use this type of surround speaker. They will also work well in higher-end systems and SACD/DVD-Audio-oriented music-surround systems.

2. Dipole/bipole
Speaker with this type of design pushes sound out to the sides. Their distinctive V-shaped front panels make them easy to identify. These speakers create a more diffuse surround sound than the monopoles. They're best suited to DVD movies and less desirable for multichannel music.
What to look for: subwoofers

Some subwoofers are better suited to providing home-theater oomph than musical bass. Home-theater bombast can be more of a quantity-over-quality issue, but some very "musical" subs lack the gravitas necessary for maximum home-theater impact. Of course, models that excel on both tend to be the most expensive.
Getting wired
Before you buy any speaker wire, place the speakers and the receiver in the positions where they're likely to wind up, then carefully measure the distances. Remember to measure up and over door frames or windows. Just to be on the safe side, add at least two extra feet to each cable run; coming up short is no fun, and most stores won't allow you to return cut-to-length cables.
In most cases, standard zip cord, available in any hardware store, will do nicely. If you need to run long (more than 20 foot) lengths between the receiver and the speakers, try to get at least 16-gauge wire (the lower the number, the thicker the wire). Specialty brands of speaker wire are more expensive but may deliver slightly better sound quality.
